PCT 2022 – Mile 4 Camp to Lake Morena County Park

This section of the PCT really tested us – it was hot, water was scarce, there was elevation gain and loss, and hikers around us were succumbing to heatstroke and dehydration. Thankfully we had just enough water to get us through this section.

Leaving from the campsite we found at mile 4.5, we appreciated the early start we got, managing to beat the heat for a little while. However, once the sun rose over the surrounding hills, it got hot quickly. We took our time as we climbed up the hills, then back down towards Hauser Canyon, where we spent the night. We set up camp fairly early in the afternoon, but were content to stay put, wanting to tackle the climb up and out of the canyon early the next day.

We would see the real Eagle Rock later, but I was surprised to see this mini-Eagle Rock about 10 miles into the trail.

In the morning we donned our headlamps, broke down camp, ate a quick breakfast and then headed up, up up. Halfway we met a hiker who had run out of water and was laying to the side of the trail. We didn’t have much water to spare, but we gave a cupful. Shortly after another hiker came to help him out – he didn’t have much water to spare himself, but he actually put on the struggling hikers pack and the two of them were able to make it to a water cache a few miles away. It became clear that the heat of the desert was absolutely no joke, and it was essential to carry plenty of water.

Once we crested the hill we began the slow, steady descent towards Lake Morena. It was in this stretch that we met Charcoal and Struggles, who we would continue to hike with off and on until Agua Dulce. As we approached Lake Morena, and subsequently made our way to the County Park to camp for the night, several hikers asked if we had seen the rattlesnake on the trail that was there just a few minutes ago. We didn’t – I think we walked right by it without seeing it! We definitely made sure after that to keep a close eye on the trail at all times.

It was great to be in an established campground in some ways – lots of water, restrooms, flat ground and shade trees. However, it was pretty loud and crowded – still, we were tired enough to get a good night’s sleep. Oh, we definitely made our way to the Malt Shop – twice! Once for breakfast and again for dinner – even though we had only been on the trail a few days, it really hit the spot.

PCT 2022 – Flight From Seattle To San Diego – Day 1

April 6, 2022 – the first day of our PCT journey north from the US / Mexico border, starting in Campo, CA. Standing at the monument alone felt like an accomplishment after weeks of preparing for the hike – picking up the last few pieces of gear, but mainly the food we needed to fill resupply boxes that would get us the first 700 miles, to Kennedy Meadows South.

Since my wife (Lynnette) and I are both vegetarian, and wanted to eat somewhat health, we prepared more boxes than most PCT hikers. We worked it out so we’d have a box every 4-7 days waiting for us, which worked out well, but more on that later. The prep putting the boxes together took longer than expected, but we had them ready to go by the time we boarded the plane in SeaTac.

The flight was smooth and short, only about 2 1/2 hours or so. Upon landing in San Diego the first thing that hit us was the heat – it was only April, but temps were in the low 80’s. We filled up our water bottles in the airport, transferred our “hazardous” stuff like hiking poles from our checked bag to our backpacks (which we carried on) and took the free shuttle to the Old Town Transit Center. At that point I realized I didn’t transfer my small Swiss army knife from the checked bag, but figured I could get another knife on the trail.

We waited about an hour at Old Town Transit Center, meeting other hikers there, before boarding the PCT Southern Terminus Shuttle to Campo. What a great service this is – they take you to REI first to get fuel, supplies, gear, food and anything else you might need, before taking you directly to the monument in Campo. They run twice a day – we took the afternoon shuttle, which got us there at about 4pm. After some photos with the monument, and some group photos, we were ready to start our journey north!

Our packs were FULL – we had more than enough food to get us to Lake Morena, and we had plenty of water – I think we had about 8 liters between the two of us. We didn’t realize at that point that there was a water source at a small stream just 4 miles from the border, but that would become standard practice for us – carrying too much water. We made it to the Mile 1 sign and took a picture, then shortly after I took a tumble and twisted my ankle. What?!?! Just one mile in and for a second I thought my hike was over! Thankfully, it wasn’t as bad as it could have been, and although it did swell up a bit, I was still able to continue (although I did twist it again later that evening while getting water in the dark.

We kept a good pace heading out of Campo – since we got a late start our goal was a site about 4.5 miles from the border. We made it there just as the sun was setting – we quickly set up camp, got water and turned in for our first night on the PCT!

Finishing The Chinook Trail Bit By Bit – Panther Creek to Grassy Knoll Trail

After over two years I finally managed to do a bit of the Chinook Trail that I missed back in 2018. Things like work, distance, pandemics and well, life, tend to get in the way. However, with a bit of free time my wife and I did a 3-day, 2-night backpacking trip along the Pacific Crest Trail. We started at the Panther Creek Campground, where I got off the Chinook Trail back in 2018 due to a lack of water carrying capacity and an oncoming cold/flu, and over two days hiked to a campsite just north of Big Huckleberry Mountain. Along the way we passed the junction to the Grassy Knoll Trail, which is where the Chinook Trail goes as it continues east. After camping with a great view of Mt. Adams on night two, we hiked all the way back to the car on day three.

Unfortunately we got a late start on day one, at about 3pm, during a Northwest heatwave where temperatures were close to 100 F – starting off at the Panther Creek Campground we were in the shade, but with temps like that and a constant uphill slog, we were dripping with sweat the entire way. Otherwise it’s the kind of hiking you would expect on the PCT – well-maintained trail with plenty of signage. As I suspected in 2018, once you depart Panther Creek there is really no water anywhere. We were well prepared though – I think I had close to 10 liters of water in my pack.

With the late start and the scorching heat, we didn’t want to go too far on day one, so we stopped at a small, one or two site PCT camping spot just off Forest Road 68. There was no views and nothing special about the site, but there is a flat spot for a 2 or 3 person tent located a fair distance off the road that worked perfectly. We made a quick n’ easy dinner, drank a couple of beers that I packed – they were warm but tasted great and lightened my load a bit for the next day.

We got an early start on day 2 and continued east on the PCT – the trail leveled off a bit, and the early morning air felt nice. It wouldn’t last long as the heat returned with a vengeance. We passed a day hiker that was in a talkative mood – unfortunately due to the pandemic we had to keep a safe distance and didn’t want to linger too long. We continued until we reached a potential camping spot with an open field and a nice view of Mt. Hood. However, it was so early in the day we thought we really should continue a bit further, so we kept going. We soon passed the junction with the Grassy Knoll Trail. This is where I would have turned back in 2018 while doing the Chinook Trail, so I marked the occasion with a mental note that I had just completed an additional 9 miles of the Chinook Trail. Someday I hope to complete the stretch from the Grassy Knoll Trail to the town of White Salmon, and then the stretch from Lyle, WA to The Dalles, but that might be a mission for 2022 at this point.

We continued just a mile or two past the trail junction to a single tent PCT site that had a great view of Mt. Adams and the Big Lava Bed. The heat was still pretty intense, but there was some shade that offered some comfort, with just bunches of swarming bugs to content with. We got there fairly early, giving us plenty of time to rest, take in the view and have some snacks before calling it a night.

Knowing that the return trip to the car on day 3 would be long, but all downhill, we wanted to get an early start. Taking advantage of the cooler, early morning hours made the return hike pleasant, although tiring and test for our legs and knees. Still, we busted out about 12 miles in just over 4 hours, so not too shabby.

We really enjoyed this hike, despite the heat, and it was the perfect pandemic hike as there were just a few people on the trail, no other campers and there were great views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams. There are no real Instagram hot spots here – they were all at the Beacon Rock Trail – we drove by there on our way to Panther Creek and the parking lot was absolutely packed. It was nice to log another 9 miles of the Chinook Trail – at this point I’d estimate that I’ve completed 260 of the 300 miles now. I hope to hike the Grassy Knoll to White Salmon section in 2022, and am 50/50 on the Lyle to The Dalles section – I might hike it, or I may just do it on a mountain bike. We’ll see when the time comes!

 

Overnight Hike to Cutthroat Pass via the Pacific Crest Trail

ff4b1fca-e821-4047-8817-3eab20bc7e4eThis has been on my list of to-do hikes for a long time – this was finally the year, just needed to wait for the snow to melt. We decided to do this as an overnighter – I’ve heard such great things about the views from the pass that we wanted to spend as much time up there as possible.

We endured the mosquito-fest at Chain Lakes the week before, so we were hoping this would be better – it definitely was. Although there were probably more bees and flies than mosquitos, and the breeze at the top kept them at bay, my wife still came back with a few bites (they don’t like my blood as much…).

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The hike up is pretty gentle – you do go up just over 2000 feet from the Rainy Pass/PCT parking lot, but it’s over 5.2 miles, so it’s pretty gradual. There are still multiple water sources along the way – now that we’re in August it can get a little hot, especially in the exposed areas before the pass, so we went through a lot of water.

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Not many critters along the way – just a few chipmunks and marmots. Once at the top we found a great spot with a small rock wall that someone built – this helped as there was a breeze out of the south for most of the night.

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In the morning we walked a mile or so further on the PCT just to check out the views from there – this section is absolutely amazing. We then packed up and made our way back down – not much to report, it was easy going. Oh, the water crossing about a mile in is a sinch to navigate – poles help, but aren’t necessary.

Backpack Decision Time – Go With The Tried And True Osprey Atmos 65 Or The New Mountainsmith Zerk 40?

Last year I saw an announcement from Mountainsmith / The Trek that there was going to be a new “fastpack” available via Indie Go Go – the Zerk 40. Co-designed by the Real Hiking Viking, who had a whole bunch of long distance hikes under his belt, it was touted as the ultimate thru-hike pack. Lightweight, large enough with a 40 L capacity to carry everything a lightweight or ultralight hiker would need, but best of all, quick and easy access to water, snacks and other knickknacks needed throughout the day, so one wouldn’t have to stop and remove their pack to get to whatever they needed. I found out about it too late to get it at the early bird price of $100, but I was able to jump in and get one for $125 (these won’t be available until July 2019, but those that bought them through the Indie Go Go sale just received them in April). I was pretty happy with my Osprey Atmos 65 in nearly every way, except weight (it’s heavy) and capacity (65 L is a bit much). However, at just $125 I thought it’d be worth picking up a Zerk 40 to see how I liked it, and how it would work with my current gear.

I received it a couple of weeks ago, and had a chance to do a quick day hike, loading it with some extra stuff I knew I wouldn’t need to add some weight to it. First impressions were good – it seems strong, I like the rolltop access to the main compartment, and there are tons of pockets – double water bottle pockets on each side, pockets on each shoulder strap, and a huge, stretchy pocket on the back. I put it on and was immediately impressed by how it fit – it was comfortable, primarily due to the wide shoulder straps that take the bulk of the weight (as opposed to my Osprey pack, where weight is distributed to the hips). For heavy loads I think it’s probably better to have weight on the hips, but for a lighter pack I like the wide shoulder strap approach. In any case, the quick hike went very well – I barely felt the pack and I loved the large shoulder strap pockets and easy access to water.

My next test was to take the gear I had on the 2.5 week Chinook Trail hike I did last October, and see if it would all fit into the Zerk 40. Long story short, it didn’t all fit. Not even close. While I didn’t necessarily need 65 L of capacity, I probably needed 50-55 L or so. However, there were a few things I could ditch or downsize. I traded out a bear cannister for a food bag, ditched the camp shoes and sun umbrella, and took out a few other odds and ends. By doing all of that I was able to eventually get everything to fit, and probably could have added a few other small items if I needed to. However, the one thing I didn’t add to the pack was extra water beyond two Smartwater bottles – if I needed more than a couple of liters of water I’d probably struggle to get it in there. The real test though was to see how it felt with the pack on – it felt okay. At about 18 pounds it was fairly heavy compared to what most thru-hikers carry, but it is rated for up to 30 pounds and there is no way I’d want this on my back with 30 pounds of stuff in it. I’d be beggin’ for my Osprey. So having it on in my living room felt okay with 18 pounds of stuff in it, but I’d really have to take it out on a hike of 5-10 miles or so to truly test it for comfort. My plan is to give it a try on a few overnighters this summer and see how it does.

On the flip side there is my Osprey Atmos 65 pack – it is a great, solid and dependable pack that I’ve had for over a year now, and put about 350 miles on it. Amazingly it still looks, and almost smells, brand new. In all of my hikes so far I have included the brain, but this year I have removed it for weight savings and reduced capacity (I just don’t need that much capacity). For comparison sake I took everything out of the Zerk 40 and put it in the Osprey – there was obviously lots of empty space (perfect for extra water), but the true test was to see how it felt with 18 pounds of stuff in it. As I suspected, it was much more comfortable – since the pack weighs over 2 pounds more than the Zerk 40, the total weight was close to 20 pounds.

I don’t have any long hikes planned this year, primarily just overnight trips. My plan is to use the Zerk 40 as much as possible this year to thoroughly test it out. I suspect that for quick trips it’ll be easy to get the weight down to the 12-14 pound range and it should do quite well. For any future long distance hikes though, I think my plan might be to go with the Osprey, and just do what I can to minimize the load. It’s super comfortable, has great ventilation and with a lighter overall weight I think it’ll be the pack to go with for longer hikes.

Chinook Trail – 300 Mile Thru-Hike Along Columbia River (Nearly) Completed

Chinook Trail (Day 1 & 2) – Lucia Falls Park To Bluff Mountain Trailhead

Well this is it—the day I start the 300-mile Chinook Trail! I said goodbye to my family and took the Amtrak from Bellingham to Vancouver, WA. The train was delayed, which was a bummer as it would already be difficult to make it to the first camp before dark. Some time was made up en-route, but I still got in about 35 minutes late.

Steve Jones from the Chinook Trail Association graciously picked me up at the station and drove me to the trailhead at Lucia Falls Park (thank you, Steve). After a few photos I was on my way.

The trail was flat and I was passed by a group of high school cross country runners going the other way—I didn’t know it then, but they were the last people I saw for three days. At the Bells Mountain trailhead I took the obligatory photo of the Chinook Trail crest, and then started uphill. It was a fairly standard Northwest forest trail, but the views started to open once reaching the first clear-cut area.

With a 4 p.m. start I knew I’d only have about three hours to make nine miles. The cloudy skies didn’t help—it got dark sooner than I expected. Time to get out the headlamp. By the time it got pitch black I didn’t have far to go, but being my first night hike I was a little spooked by every little sound in the forest. I saw a pair of glowing eyes at one point but soon discovered it was just a deer.

I was happy to finally reach Cold Creek camp at about 7:45—it’s accessible by car and being October I had my choice of sites so I picked one by the creek. Had a quick snack, set up the tent, and called it a night.

Cold Creek Camp to Bluff Mountain Trailhead

Woke up without an alarm at 7:45—it had rained lightly overnight, but with my tent under a tree it was relatively dry. Had oatmeal and coffee, then packed up and headed out. My goal the previous night was to reach the Rock Creek camp, but it turned out to be about an hour away so it would have been even more night hiking.

From here I was on the Tarbell Trail, heading upward toward Silver Star Mountain. The Tarbell Trail is well maintained and passes through alternating forest and forested areas. The views start to open up the higher you go and it was cool to see where I started, which was now about 15 miles away. During this section there were a few trickling streams—I thought there would be others farther on, but there weren’t… more on this later.

I was trying to make up time so there were a few sections where I deviated from the Tarbell, taking steeper logging roads instead. In the end it was probably a “six of one, half dozen if the other” kind of situation.

As I approached the Silver Star summit there were amazing views in all directions. I only had a few hours of daylight left so unfortunately I skipped the side trail to the actual summit and joined the Bluff Mountain Trail.

This trail is amazing, and is now one of my favorites in the state. I don’t think many people do it or know about it, probably because it’s difficult to get to. I love talus traverses and this one was exceptional. I made it around to the backside of Little Baldy and Bluff Mountain and a whole new view opened up of the Copper Creek valley.

The wind was picking up and the sun was starting to set, and there definitely was nowhere to camp here so I picked up the pace. About 15 minutes before I would have got out my headlamp the trail met up with a logging road in a large open area—Bluff Mountain trailhead! I set up camp, caught the last remnants of sunset, and called it a night. Didn’t get the greatest night of sleep, but more on that later.

Chinook Trail (Day 3 & 4) – Bluff Mountain Trailhead To Panther Creek / White Salmon

 Woke up early in the morning to frost on the tent and a beautiful sunrise, with a view of Mount Hood in the far distance. The bear canister full of food and coffee was frozen, so it took some effort to open it. With coffee made and consumed, it was time to pack up and hit the trail. The day started off with the steep forest road—rocks and gravel created a blister situation on my already sore feet. The road was fine for foot travel, but I wouldn’t have wanted to drive it in a vehicle unless it was a heavy-duty jeep or some other high-clearance vehicle.

Where’s the Water?

I was pretty low on water—I left camp with about half a liter. I figured it would get me to the Fourth of July camp if I didn’t find water sooner. Unfortunately, once I reached Fourth of July camp there was no water to be found. It was a nice open camp, perfect for car camping, with an expansive view. There could’ve been water there somewhere, but unfortunately there was no obvious source. I continued on to Springs Camp, figuring there would be a spring with plenty of water. I reached the junction to Springs Camp and took the one-third mile detour, only to find an overgrown “camp” full of bushes, tree limbs, and ferns. It was obvious that nobody had camped there for years and unfortunately I could not find water there either. I later found out from Steve Jones of the Chinook Trail Association that there is water there; it just required wading through the thick bushes and undergrowth. (A couple of days later Steve said he went there to check it out and cleared a section of bushes to make the water easier to get to —what a guy!)

Frustration grew as I knew I needed water soon. I walked up the detour back to the road—by now I only had one inch of water in my bottle. Fortunately, about 1,000 feet down the trail there was a light trickle of a stream. It took about an hour to get two liters of water in my bottles, and I cameled up with another liter of water. I was so relieved.

After a few more miles I reached a junction where it was obvious they didn’t want vehicles to go—big trenches were built to keep cars from going farther. This stretch was fairly spooky—I don’t think many people use the section of trail. However, it was nice because the trail was softer, with dirt and pine needles instead of rocks and gravel. After a couple of miles I reached the junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. Compared to what I had hiked so far the PCT was amazing—it was so soft! It was well-maintained and the soft needles felt sooooo good under my feet. There was an gradual uphill, but then a long downhill to the Trout Creek camp. I passed several streams on the way but knew there would be plenty of water at Trout Creek. I reached the PCT camp there and it was beautiful, situated right by a bridge with a nice log to sit on and hear the trickling stream nearby.

Hard Decision Made – Bail Out and Hitch to White Salmon

Facing another 20 miles or so without water (well, there was one reported source about halfway in that was a seasonal water source) I made the tough decision overnight to bail out at Panther Creek. While this decision ended the possibility of this being a true thru-hike, after the water scare the day before it was really the only decision I could make. The disappointment was lessened by the fact that this section of PCT trail was really nice, beautiful forest walking in total silence. After about two hours I reached the Panther Creek Bridge. I tapped the bridge with my hiking pole, knowing that I would have to come back someday to complete the trail.

I took a break by the creek, ate some lunch, and filled up all my water bottles and started walking towards Carson, WA. As I road walked I  approached a group of about 30 wild turkeys that walked down the road about 50 yards ahead of me. This continued for about a quarter-mile or so,  when a car pulled up and stopped. The car was beat up with junk all over the floors and seats and there were two dogs inside. Inside the car on the dashboard and on the doors were various positive, life-affirming slogans. The woman inside asked if I’d like a ride and I said yes—given the choice of ten miles of road walking vs. a quick hitch it was an easy decision to make. Despite appearances, she was very nice and we had a good conversation on the way.

She dropped me off at the general store in Carson, where I picked up some fruit and yogurt and looked at different options. There is is a campground in Carson that I could’ve stayed at, but getting from Carson to White Salmon is not easy. There are no trails and road walking wouldn’t have been a good option either. I called Skamania Transportation and they offered a senior services shuttle for only four dollars. And it’d be there in ten minutes! The driver was super nice and great to talk to and the scenery in that section of the Columbia River was amazing. It was disappointing to see the section I was skipping, but on the other side of the river I could see where I’d be hiking in a few days, including the imposing Mount Defiance.

So far this hike I haven’t had a big appetite, but seeing Everybody’s Brewing across the street I figured I’d give a meal there a try. I ordered fish and chips, and chips and salsa, along with a beer—it was all very good. I ate all the fish, about half of fries and a few of the tortilla chips, but it was still fairly difficult to eat. No hiker hunger yet. For some reason it was also difficult to eat—the roof of my mouth was sore. I thought it was from mouth breathing eight to 12 hours a day, and it may have been, but it was probably a building cold that hit me a few days later. I hung out there for the afternoon charging devices before walking down to Bridge RV Park. It was amazing to camp at the RV park—it was clean and had showers and laundry. I finished the day by collecting my resupply box, choosing the food I wanted to continue with, and packing the rest back into the box, which I forwarded to Hood River.

Chinook Trail (Day 5, 6 & 7) – White Salmon To Lyle, WA

Bailing at Panther Creek, and hitching and shuttling to White Salmon, gave me an unexpected zero day in White Salmon. While I wasn’t too sore from the trail yet, it dumped rain all day long so it wouldn’t have been a pleasant day of hiking. The day was used to relax and get a few things done. Quick shower, then a walk uphill into town to forward my resupply box to Hood River. Then I went over to White Salmon Baking Company, a cool artisan cafe/bakery. I enjoyed cup after cup of coffee and an egg/cheese/mushroom/herb scramble on top of a thick slice of bread. The rain come down in buckets as I read Carrot Quinn’s latest zine and charged devices—capped it off with a gooey chocolate chip and walnut cookie. The rest of the day was spent picking up vitamins at the funnily named Hi-School Pharmacy, having a big lunch/dinner at Everybody’s Brewing, and then walking back to the RV park in the rain.

Back on the Trail – Crossing from Western Washington to Eastern Washington

The next day was overcast and in the 50s to start; perfect hiking weather. I packed up camp and hit the road for a one-mile road walk to Bingen to hit Carmen’s for breakfast. After enjoying a big omelet, hash browns, coffee, and OJ, I started the uphill climb to White Salmon, where the actual trail walking for the day started. Behind a fairly large hospital was the trailhead for the Millennium Trail, which switchbacks up the Columbia River side of Burdoin Mountain. It was a scenic hike up through oak trees, with views of White Salmon, Hood River, and the Columbia opening up nicely. I didn’t like the thousands of acorns that I had to step on, but worse was the wet grass that soaked my boots and socks.

At the top I encountered a “No Trespassing” sign with a couple of dogs barking behind it—but the trail continued beyond the sign. What to do now? I saw the trail continue to climb, but not in the direction I needed to go. I looked a bit more carefully and saw that the dogs were behind an invisible fence. The sign just pertained to the land where the dogs were standing, not the trail. I opened the gate and was able to continue forward.

Atwood Road Traverse to Coyote Cliffs

The Millennium Trail meets up with Atwood Road, which, despite the name, is really just a single track trail that’s too narrow for vehicles. It’s a beautiful forest trail—I didn’t know at the time, but it was really the last nice forest trail I would walk until I reached the PCT on the Oregon side.

Atwood Road hooks up with the Coyote Wall area, a network of trails popular with mountain bikers and hikers. It’s also where the trees thin, the grass is yellow/gold and the clouds part—I was now entering Eastern Washington. The temps also rose about 15 degrees—time to hook up the sun umbrella for the first time. It took 45 minutes, but I finally figured out how to attach it to my pack—should have tried at home first. The panoramic view from here was amazing—I could see a 20-mile stretch of the Columbia River. All the way to Lyle—my end point for the day. It seemed so close, but it really wasn’t.

As I snaked down the mountain, taking lots of photos along the way, I saw a WTA (Washington Trails Association) crew doing trail work. Needing a break, I stopped to say hi for a bit. The leader of the crew, Tom Griffith, is also a volunteer with the Chinook Trail Association, so it was great to talk to him about how the hike was going so far. We took a few photos, but I had to continue on so I said goodbye and made my way down to the bottom of the Coyote Wall section. This is where I met up with Old Highway 8, which starts off as an abandoned road (probably due to the crumbling cliffs above it). It then meets with an active section of the highway, which would take me all the way to Lyle. Yep, I had about eight miles of road walking to look forward to.

Road Walk to Lyle

This was my first big road walk of the Chinook Trail and I was curious to see how it would go, as I had longer road walking stretches ahead of me. No one throws on a 30-35 pound pack and purposefully trains on concrete roads—it’s not fun and it just isn’t good for you. Still, for this trail it is a big part of it. Thankfully, this stretch is quite scenic, passing Catherine Creek Park, farmland, cows, wineries, and amazing views of the Columbia River. The shoulder wasn’t very wide, which was OK since there was little traffic on this road (other than people going to the wineries).

I made it into Lyle about 6 p.m. and checked in for my first hotel stay—at the Lyle Hotel. It’s really the only option in town, but it’s a great place to stay. The owners are super-nice and the restaurant is excellent. They asked if I’d like a beer brought to my room as I unpacked and took a shower—how could I turn that down? Mentioning that I liked IPAs that’s what they brought me. Ironically, it was from a brewery in my town of Bellingham. Unfortunately, it’s from a brewery I am boycotting—Melvin Brewing, whose “bro culture” and extreme anti-women attitudes should not be encouraged by drinking their beer. I appreciated the gesture, and drank the beer not knowing where it was from, but after talking to the owners they said they would no longer carry their beer.

I spent the rest of the evening enjoying a nice meal, hanging out with the owners, and making a new friend—a fellow hiker and outdoor enthusiast named Elmo. Unfortunately, as the evening drew to a close, I started sneezing and coughing—was this some sort of illness coming on? Nooooo…

Chinook Trail (Day 8 & 9) – Shaking a Cold, Big Decisions

Decision Made – Cut Out the Eastern Section and Continue from The Dalles

I woke up feeling horrible—it was full blown and I didn’t want to leave the room. While I could have done the 16 relatively flat miles to Wahkiacus, what would I do then if I felt even worse? I think there’s a big part of me that would have gone for it if I hadn’t already cut out the Panther Creek to White Salmon section, but I promised everyone going into this that as a solo hiker I would make smart, safe decisions, and the only choice was to stay, rest up, and continue on the next day farther down the trail.

I booked an extra night, rested, then had a little bit to eat, and decided to get some fresh air and at least walk the first mile or two of the Klickitat Trail. It was pretty frustrating, such a beautiful and easy section of trail, and I wouldn’t be doing it. However, I knew I would come back and do it someday. I turned around a little past Klickitat County Park, watched a bit of the Seahawks game (they lost), heated up a Backpackers Bistro Mexican beans and rice meal, took some cold meds, and called it a day.

Zero Day No. Two – Catch a Ride from Lyle to The Dalles

Still not feeling 100 percent, but good enough to camp. I texted my new friend Elmo, who graciously was able to give me a ride across the river to the nearest campground I could find to The Dalles, which was Memaloose State Park. On the ride over we talked about the Chinook Trail, and the possibility of the CTA coming up with an alternate, shorter route that would cut out the Klickitat Trail and about 50 miles of road walking in Eastern Washington and Oregon. Instead, one would go from Lyle to The Dalles, then continue west to Portland. He dropped me off at the park as it started to rain, and I promised him that I’d send him some surf tunes from my record label to use in some of his rock-climbing videos. I set up camp under a tree, made a fire, and rested up more to try to kick this cold once and for all.

Memaloose State Park to Hood River on the Columbia River Highway State Trail

Knowing I had a fairly short day of hiking, I had breakfast and packed up camp around 8, then hit the highway. Yes, because Memaloose Park is split in half by Highway 84, and I was on the river side with no access to the other side, I had to walk on the shoulder of the highway toward Mosier. Thankfully, this section had a wide shoulder and for most of it I was able to walk on the other side of the guar rail. After 1.5 miles I reached a tunnel that went under the freeway on Rowena River Road, which would then allow me to access the Old Columbia River Highway. I made my way down a steep slope, dropped my pack over some barbed wire, and then lowered myself down to the tunnel. From there I walked through an orchard and met some workers. I was worried that I was trespassing, and might be in trouble, but they said that while there isn’t public access it wasn’t a big deal and told me how to get through the front gate. Really nice guys, although they thought I was a little crazy to be hiking so far.

Having reached the road, I made my way through the town of Mosier. I had hoped for a coffee and cinnamon roll, but everything in town was closed. I rested a bit at the site of their farmers market, then continued on west out of town to meet up with the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail. I passed a local who suggested a nice shortcut trail, which featured great views of the river and avoided about a half mile of road walking. I met up with the paved trail, which climbed uphill to the Mosier Twin Tunnels. This is definitely the highlight of this section—cool tunnels reinforced by wood beams, with peek-a-boo views of the river in a couple of sections.

For most of this section, about seven to eight miles, I was able to walk on the dirt and gravel shoulder, avoiding the unrelenting pavement. The views of the Columbia River were amazing throughout. I arrived in Hood River about 12:30, anxious to check in at the Hood River Hotel, take a shower, and get some food. Feeling up for a beer or two, I decided to hit the local microbreweries and get a pint at each one. I started off at Double Mountain with a Black Irish Stout and a veggie pizza, then continued on to Big Horse brewing for a Cornucopia corn lager, which was pretty amazing.

Later met up with Elmo, his wife, Ozy, and their three kids at Pfriem Brewing for an amazingly fun evening of conversation, great beer, and delicious food. It was awesome to get to know them and I hope that our families can get together soon. They’re such great people. Capped off the evening with a schooner at Ferment Brewing, completing my brewery tour of Hood River (skipped Full Sail, which you can find in just about any grocery or convenience store), and then called it a night. This would be my last town day for a while, before heading south to Mount Hood.

Chinook Trail (Day 10 & 11) – Meeting Up With The PCT From Hood River, OR, To Lost Lake Resort

Decision Time – Up and Over Mount Defiance, or Skip It

This section was a little tricky—it was uphill, but between a somewhat complex network of forest roads, and dozens of mountain biking trails, it was easy to get lost and I took a couple of wrong turns. Thankfully, GPS and the Gaia app bailed me out each time. Once I reached the 4,000-foot level I had a choice to make—go up and over Mount Defiance, or stay at roughly 4,000 feet and traverse it. Knowing the views aren’t great up there, and having limited daylight left, I opted for the traverse. It was at this point that I reached 100 miles of hiking for the trip.

There weren’t many people up there, but I did pass a few mountain bikers, and someone taking his dogs for a “walk.” The driver was in his truck, going up the forest road, and his dogs were tailing behind. I reached the junction for the Rainy Lake Trail—finally, after a long day of road walking, first on pavement, and then on gravel, I would be on actual trail. It was a nice, fairly level trail that didn’t seem to be used too often. Found a pretty little waterfall and filled up my water bottles. Met up with a wildlife surveyor—funny to see him bundled up from head to toe while I was sweating in a short sleeve hiking shirt (it was probably about 45 degrees at this point). It was getting dark, but I reached camp at about 6:30 and had my pick of four sites and chose the one closest to the cute little A-frame bathroom.

Rainy Lake Camp to Lost Lake Resort on the PCT

This was supposed to be an easy day—Gaia said it’d be 12-14 miles, and a hiker I met near Wahtum Lake said from there it was about seven miles. In the end, it was a 20+ mile day—oh well, it was the most amazing day of hiking as well so I didn’t care. Had the usual for breakfast—a Via coffee and oatmeal, then got underway at 8:30. I thought I’d be road walking to Wahtum Lake, but my campsite was right next to a trailhead for Wahtum Lake. I think what I saw on Gaia as a road is actually a trail. In any case, one must always choose the trail, so that’s the way I went, and made sure to verify with Gaia that I was going in the right direction (I was).

It was cool to see Mount Hood getting closer and closer with each step. Once I reached Wahtum Lake I rested a bit, had a snack, then joined up with the PCT, which would be under my feet for the next 40 miles or so. After an initial uphill stretch, the trail flattened out and I was able to reach 4 mph for quite a way. The highlight of the day was reaching an open area below the summit of Indian Mountain. It was a clear day and I could see Mount St. Helens, Mount Rainier, and Mount Adams in the distance, with wide swaths of burnt trees from last year’s horrific fires. I took a ton of photos, gulped down some water, and continued on.

Met a PCT NOBO hiker, who I believe was from Germany, and talked to him for a few minutes. Unfortunately, he wasn’t going to make it—not because of cold weather and snow up north (although that would have been an issue), but his visa was expiring soon. By this point I was only about 12 miles from Mount Hood as the crow flies, but for me it would be another 25 miles or so of hiking. I pushed hard to make it to Lost Lake Resort before they closed—I didn’t have a reservation, but more importantly, I really wanted a beer. The general store closed at 5 p.m., and by 4 p.m. I still had three downhill miles to go. It would be tight! On my way down I met a couple of day hikers who were staying at the resort, who said there was a temporary sign at the store that said they closed at 4. I kept pushing, hoping today it would be open at 5, but no such luck, and I actually didn’t make it there until 5:15 anyway.

I met a worker at the store who was closing up, and he gave me the scoop on where to camp, which helped. Unfortunately, no amount of persuasion would convince him to sell me a beer, but the thought of setting up camp, having a nice meal, and relaxing were enough for me. Had a Good To Go mushroom risotto for the first time and it was awesome. I love that company! It was getting cold so I popped into the tent, snuggled up in my quilt, and read for a bit before calling it a night.

Lost Lake Resort Detour – Yea or Nay

On a side note, I’m not sure how many PCTers take the detour down to Lost Lake Resort, but it’s debatable whether it’s worth it. It’s about 800 feet below the PCT, and about three miles in each direction. Plus, there are some nice-looking campsites at the junction of the PCT and the Lost Lake Trail. I didn’t need to resupply, and I got there after the general store closed, so I really didn’t need to do the extra six miles of round-trip hiking. Still, it’s a beautiful lake, and the hot coffee and cup of Life cereal and milk hit the spot in the morning.

Chinook Trail (Day 12 & 13) – Lost Lake to ALDHA-West Gathering

I was anxious to hit the Lost Lake General Store this morning—I really wanted something for breakfast other than Pop-Tarts and oatmeal. A breakfast burrito, cinnamon roll—anything but the usual! Well, no such luck. They were getting ready to close for the season and were letting their inventory dwindle down. I scoured the shelves for something different, but the best I could find was a cup of Life cereal and milk. Along with a hot cup of coffee, it wasn’t a bad breakfast. Enjoyed the view of the lake from the front porch and charged up my devices, then headed back to camp to pack up and get the day started.

Lost Lake Resort to Muddy River Camp on the PCT

Took the two-mile hike out of Lost Lake slow and steady, then met up with the PCT, heading south toward Mount Hood. Shortly after, I heard a noise about 100 yards or so below the trail, in a small meadow. Off in the distance was a bear—my first bear sighting on the trail. I clacked my poles together and it scampered off into the woods. I have to admit, that was exactly the way I wanted to see a bear on the trail—far away and running away from me.

Shortly before reaching Lolo Pass I started seeing other hikers—the bear was really the only living creature I saw over the first two to three hours of hiking that day. There were some awesome views of Mount Hood, and some not-so-awesome views of buzzing power lines. I talked to a group of hikers about the Chinook Trail, and then met a Scottish NOBO PCT thru-hiker. We talked a bit about whether it was work going to Lost Lake or not, trail names, and the trail. He was determined to make it to Canada, although it was now almost mid-October. We fist bumped and went our separate ways.

I planned to rest and have lunch at Lolo Pass, but without any views or picnic tables (that I could find) I decided to just continue on. The route switchbacked up, up, up, but I kept a pretty good pace, determined to make it past Bald Mountain. That goal didn’t turn out to be a problem—I still had a couple of hours of daylight at the point where I had to complete a backcountry permit and the trail started going steeply downhill.

Reaching the Muddy River, which was more of a heavy flowing stream, I saw a couple of large trees with a rope attached. That was one way to cross the river—but it seemed like there would be a way to cross on rocks somewhere. I looked upstream, but any possible crossings would have required changing into my Crocs, which were at the bottom of my pack. Out of laziness, I decided to just go for the tree crossing. It was actually pretty easy—the trees were wet, but having the rope to hold onto really helped.

The Muddy River PCT camp wasn’t far away—I set up camp and started dinner. While I enjoyed a Good-To-Go Thai curry meal, I watched a bunch of hikers with headlamps pass—some came down the way I came, while others were likely returning from Ramona Falls. Darkness fell, as did the temperatures, so I cleaned up and went into my tent for the night.

Muddy River Camp to ALDHA-West Gathering

Finished off the last of my Pop-Tarts (won’t be buying those again for a loooong time), warmed up with some coffee and oatmeal, then packed up and hit the trail. Instead of taking the PCT, I took the trail to Ramona Falls, enjoying the early-morning solitude with a bit of frost underfoot. It was slightly uphill, following Ramona Creek through lush forest. Reaching the falls around 9 a.m., I was thankful to have it all to myself—it was pretty amazing and well worth the slightly longer detour. I filled up my water bottles, took a ton of photos, and continued on to where the trail connects with the PCT. Unfortunately, I still had the slightly inaccurate NatGeo layer on in the Gaia app, which led me the wrong way—1,000 feet in the wrong direction. Thankfully it was fairly flat, and it wasn’t a big deal to turn around and go in the right direction.

My pre-hike research told me that crossing the Sandy River can be a little sketch at times. Thankfully, due to the dry weather and getting an early start, it was no problem at all. One branch was easily crossed by hopping rocks, while the main section of river had a cluster of branches that formed a fairly solid bridge. It was a beautiful area, with the sun peaking over the nearby ridge and a view of Mount Hood in the distance.

However, I couldn’t stay for long as today was set to be a fairly long day of hiking. Entering the forest the trail went up, and up, and up. About 3,000 feet or so, from Sandy River to the Paradise Park area on Mount Hood. As I slowly worked my way upward I was starting to get passed by day hikers and trail runners coming down in the opposite direction. As I reached the treeline the views opened up and were quite amazing—Mount Hood above, and deep glacial valleys below. The ground was frozen here—my trekking poles were unable to break through the dirt, so it was kinda like hiking on rock for a while.

Met Pop Tart, an Appalachian Trail thru-hiker who was out doing some day hikes in the Mount Hood region. Super nice guy—talked to him about his adventures, and I told him about the Chinook Trail. We went opposite directions, but I met up with him later just before I left the PCT to head down the mountain on the Hidden Lake Trail. The top half of the Hidden Lake Trail sucked—it was overgrown, with occasional blowovers. It obviously wasn’t a very popular trail, but with some maintenance it would be a lot more enjoyable. Thankfully, the condition of the trail improved on the lower half, as I got closer to the Kiwanis Camp just outside of Government Camp, site of the ALDHA-West Gathering.

I passed a few attendees who were going uphill on the trail to stretch their legs a bit—they mentioned the group photo would be at 4:15. That was less than an hour away. I knew they’d make it easily—they were fresh and didn’t have 30 pounds on their backs. I would have to pick up the pace. It was at this point I started to feel the emotion of what I had accomplished, along with knowing that the adventurous, backcountry part of my Chinook Trail experience was drawing to a close. From this point on it’d be a Kiwanis camp, a hotel, an RV park, a state park, and mostly road walking before I reached the end.

Upon reaching the American Long Distance Hiking Association – West Gathering I checked in at the registration desk, grabbed a beer, and made it over to the grassy area for the group photo (still with my pack on). After the photo I set up camp and enjoyed the festivities—a talk from Jennifer Pharr Davis, a dinner where I loaded up on salad and mashed potatoes (everything else was meat), and I met a couple of fellow Bellingham hikers—Swept Away and Arrow. I also met Rudy from the Cascade Hiker Podcast, as well as three of the people that have completed the Chinook Trail: Allgood, Snorkel, and Marmot. The evening closed with the Triple Crown awards for folks that have completed the PCT, AT, and CDT.

Chinook Trail (Day 14, 15, 16 & 17) – Mount Hood to the End in Portland, OR

The ALDHA-West Gathering was a blast—met lots of great people, ate a bunch of delicious food, and was inspired by the stories of all of the thru-hikers in attendance. However, I wasn’t quite done with the Chinook Trail—I still had to get to Portland. But first, there was a slight detour that I wedged into my route planning for the trail—an overnight at the Overlook Hotel… I mean Timberline Lodge. It was a hike with 3,000+ feet of elevation gain, but it was only seven miles away so it would go fairly quickly. I left the Kiwanis Camp and set off on the Pioneer Bridal Trail, which ran somewhat parallel to the Mount Hood Highway on its way east. Had a few close calls with mountain bikers who were using the same trail, and trails that intersected it, but managed to avoid collisions with them.

Made it into Government Camp and went to Charlies for breakfast and to watch the Seahawks/Raiders game that was played in London. It ended up being a blowout in the Seahawks’ favor, so I left early for a nice, sunny (and windy) hike up the Glade Trail up the southern slopes of Mount Hood. It was pretty steep at times, but with a slow and steady pace the miles went by quickly. Had a bloody nose on the way—not sure if it was elevation, dryness, or what, but took care of it quickly and soldiered upward. It was nice to reach some of the lower ski lifts of the Timberline ski area—it meant the lodge wasn’t far away.

Upon reaching the lodge I was anxious to take off my pack, wash my clothes, take a shower, and get some food and a beer. Timberline was an awesome place to hang out—had some great food (including a vegetarian field roast with potatoes and kale for dinner), and the hot tub was pretty amazing. Talked to some fun people at the bar about hiking and football (there was a great game on with the Chiefs and Patriots).

Mount Hood / Timberline Lodge to Mount Hood RV Resort / Welches, OR

I woke up early to catch an amazing sunrise, with clear views all the way south to Mount Jefferson and The Sisters. While I wasn’t experiencing the hiker hunger that PCT hikers are dealing with when they make it to Timberline, I did want to partake in the famous breakfast buffet. Have to say, as a vegetarian it’s not great—mainly lukewarm eggs and potatoes, but if you’re hungry nothing beats a buffet no matter what’s in the line. Not feeling the need to hike back down the mountain, as these weren’t miles that were part of my Chinook Trail hike, I took a shuttle to Zig Zag, OR. There were a few miles that I didn’t hike that were part of my intended hiking route, but they were on the Mount Hood Highway. The section didn’t have much of a shoulder, and would have been fairly dangerous to walk, so I think I made the right decision.

Once in Zig Zag I walked a route through a residential area that avoided the highway, for the most part. For the last couple of miles the highway was unavoidable, but it wasn’t too bad as I made it into the Mount Hood RV Resort. As expected, I was the only tent camper there and I was given a lonely spot in the woods to set up. Still, there was a heated bathroom nearby, so it wasn’t so bad. With no food options nearby I hiked back up the highway to the Whistle Stop Bar & Grill for a veggie burger and soup.

Mount Hood RV Resort / Welches, OR, to Oxbow Regional Park

At this point I wasn’t really seeing the point of endangering myself by doing more freeway walking, when I wasn’t going to complete every step of the trail, so I took a shuttle that dropped me off six miles to the west. At Alder Creek there were back roads that would take me through Sandy, OR, and on to Oxbow Regional Park. The roads were nice and quiet, but nearly a century ago the same roads were part of the main route between the Portland area and Mount Hood, but were bypassed when the Mount Hood Highway was built. I talked to an older gentleman out on a walk near Cherryville (no longer an actual town) who told me a little bit about the history of the area. As I worked my way west toward Sandy there were more houses, nearly all of them fenced in with barking dogs behind their front gates.

Upon reaching Sandy I was starving, and was really craving pizza (a whole pizza!). I stopped at Boomer’s Wall Street Pizza and had an awesome veggie pizza, garlic bread, and beer. I still had about ten miles to go, but it all tasted so good, and somehow it didn’t slow me down later. The workers there were interested to hear about the Chinook Trail, and one of them had done the Oregon Coast Trail recently. The hike to Oxbow Park was all road walking, and except for a great viewpoint of the Sandy River valley with Mount Hood now in the far distance, it was pretty uneventful. Upon reaching the park a helpful ranger assigned me a campsite, brought some firewood, and even called my wife at home to let her know I was OK (despite being only 11 miles from Portland there was unexpectedly no cell service).

Oxbow Regional Park To The End! (McMenamins Edgefield in Troutdale)

This was it—the last day of my Chinook Trail adventure. It was definitely a day of mixed emotions. I had found my hiker’s legs, my 30+ pound pack felt comfortable to the point where it was barely noticeable, and I was really enjoying myself. On the flip side, I was anxious to see my wife and kids again. Oh, and the road walking was causing all sorts of problems—my first blisters, and hamstring issues in my right leg. I was about to finish the Chinook Trail, yet I wasn’t because of the miles I missed earlier. If I had the opportunity I would have found a ride to Panther Creek in Washington and finished the miles I had to skip, but I had to leave that for another time.

The day started with a curious deer coming into camp and scoping things out. I packed up and hit the trail out of Oxbow Park, then walked quiet, rural roads as I headed west. Unfortunately, the amount of traffic increased, and the size of the shoulders decreased, making the approach to Troutdale kinda sketchy. This went for about two hours or so—I had to duck off to the side every time a car approached. Upon reaching residential sidewalks, I knew the end was near—by this point I was only a few miles from Edgefield.

It was breezy, but sunny, and despite the pain in my feet and right leg I was enjoying this. In the distance I saw the water tower that rises above McMenamins Edgefield, and the emotion of what I had accomplished, and what was ending, hit me hard. There was so much uncertainty going into this hike—it would have been so much different if it were colder, or if it rained, or if I wasn’t physically up to it. Yet here I was, with the Edgefield sign in front of me—it was over! I went straight into the bar with my pack on and my hiker’s stench and ordered a beer. A nice older couple asked me all about the trail, and paid for my beer—trail magic! My wife later met me and we had a nice time at one of our favorite spots in the Northwest, and it was great to rest up and prepare for going home and back to work.

While this is my last post covering my 2018 Chinook Trail adventure, I do plan on completing the sections I missed in 2019. Once that’s done, I will write a final wrap-up post, as well as a guide with tips and recommendations for any of you who want to do the Chinook Trail. I will say that I highly recommend this trail for anyone looking for a thru-hiking adventure, but may not have five to six months to devote to one of the more famous long-distance trails. For more information on the trail, please visit the Chinook Trail Association website at: http://chinooktrails.org/

Chinook Trail Gear List & Final Preparations For Beginning Of Thru-Hike

It’s hard to believe – in just over a week I’ll be hopping aboard an Amtrak from Bellingham to Vancouver, WA, and hitting the Chinook Trail! I spend a day this week washing my hiking clothing, then spraying them (and my pack) with Permethrin (as I anticipate a few days in prime tick habitat). I packed by bear canister full of 5 days worth of food, enough to get me to White Salmon, and then put everything into my backpack. Somehow, with the addition of food, my base weight climbed from 20 pounds, up to 31 pounds. I’m going to have to go through everything one last time, but ideally I’d like to get it down to about 29 pounds with food.

I have posted my Lighterpack list below – there are definitely some luxury items in this gear list, and I’ll have to take a long look at whether I should take everything listed. This summer I went on a few overnight “training hikes” and I went with two sleeping pads—a foam and an inflatable pad. I like the flexibility, the comfort and added protection for the inflatable pad by having the foam pad underneath. They add up to over a pound though, so I may axe one of them – likely the foam pad.

For clothing I’ll be bringing two of everything – shirts, pants, socks, underwear and hiking boots/Crocs. With a few town stops along the way, I should be able to wash clothing every few days. One vital item for me is knee sleeves. After 18 years of soccer I’ve been able to strengthen my knees through Crossfit (thank you Crossfit X, Travis and all of the other coaches!). However, with some days hitting 6,000 feet of elevation gain/loss, knee sleeves will help, along with trekking poles.

Overall I’m reasonably happy with a base weight of 20 pounds, but I wouldn’t mind dropping a bit of weight. With food my pack climbed up to 31 pounds, and that’s without water and my emergency locator beacon, so I’m going to have to find stuff to remove as I really want to get it down below 30 pounds with food.

Thankfully, there should be plenty of water for most of the trail, so I’ll probably carry 2-3 liters at a time. 

Lighterpack List

Here is my current gear list – it’s an active list so if I swap out anything it’ll show below:

https://lighterpack.com/e/92hc7i

Cascade Pass / Sahale Glacier Camp Overnighter (August 21-23)

This is an overnighter I’ve wanted to do for years, but with so much to discover in the Mt. Baker area I kinda focused my attention there with my day and overnight hikes, but this year felt like the year it was finally time to take on the Cascade Pass / Sahale Glacier trail. It’s not an easy one – it’s 6 miles each direction, with 4000 feet of elevation gain, but wow, it’s definitely worth the effort! Camping at the Sahale Glacier camp requires a backcountry permit from the North Cascades National Park, so I did some research, found the window for applying for a permit and selected the days that would work best, and patiently waited a few weeks before the approval email arrived in my inbox.

The days and months passed, and I did quite a few local hikes, as well as the Welcome Pass trail near Mt. Baker – all great training hikes for the Sahale Glacier camp climb. I found a friend to join me (Jason) and we put together a plan – we’d go the day before, pick up our permit from the Marblemount Ranger Station, and camp in a National Forest campground near the trailhead so we could get an early start the next day.

We were packed and ready to go, but the Northwest has been hit with intense, thick smoke from wildfires in BC and WA state, with air quality hitting dangerous levels – exertion outdoors was not recommended. Visibility was shot as well – you could see less than a mile in Bellingham, and it was supposedly worse in the mountains. So we waffled a little bit about going or pulling the plug, but we decided to go for it, and if either of us felt like it wasn’t worth it we’d turn around and try again some other day.

We drove up, go our camping permit, and then met a friend of his who works at the North Cascades Institute for dinner in Marblemount (I won’t say where we went, but it was not good). We then headed up the Cascade River Road and, with little daylight left, stopped at the first campground, the Marble Creek campground, which is about 10-12 miles from Marblemount and about 10-12 miles from the Cascade Pass/Sahale Arm trailhead. It’s a nice National Forest campground, with about the cleanest smelling pit toilet I’ve ever experienced, but it was surprising that a couple of people had campfires going – I’m pretty sure there’s a statewide burn ban, and even if campfires in fire pits are allowed, why would you have one when the air quality is in the hazardous range? We found a great spot in a quiet corner of the campground and called it a night.

The next day we drove up to the trailhead – the road is in decent shape overall. From Marblemount the first half is paved, and the second half is gravel. There are a few intense sections of washboard road, but very few potholes and there’s even a few short sections of paved road as you approach the trailhead. Once we got there we found the lot was about half-full, definitely due to the smoke. You could kinda make out the outlines of the nearby mountains, and could even kinda see Cascade Pass, but it was pretty thick. What gave us optimism was the fact that it seemed like it might be possible to hike above the smoke – this definitely became a possibility once we made it to Cascade Pass, the halfway point, as we could see a slight blueish tint to the smoky sky above us.

We threw our packs on and started to make our ascent up the trail – I’m the slower of the two of us, so I took the lead, both of us in agreement that we’d take it slow and steady to avoid huffing and puffing as we made our way up a seemingly endless stretch of switchbacks. They actually aren’t that bad, especially since we’d both done the Welcome Pass trail not too long ago. It was fairly cool in the trees, and after an hour or so we broke out of the trees and looked ahead to the long traverse to Cascade Pass, which included a great water source (the only one between the trailhead and midway up Sahale Arm), and a long stretch across a talus field. The snow field that was reported on WTA back in July was long gone, so that wasn’t a water option. I filtered at the small waterfall next to the trail (Jason drank it unfiltered) and we continued on to Cascade Pass, where we rested and ate lunch. Over the half hour or so we were there, we saw people who made it their final destination, while others were planning to continue up Sahale Arm. A few coming down said they saw a black bear about 45 minutes up that was hanging out near the trail, but wasn’t bothering anyone. We were also able to look up and see more blue in the sky, and could see a bit further up the mountains that surrounded us.

The next section of trail up the arm gains altitude with switchbacks and traverses, and is mostly exposed. It was warm, but there was a bit of breeze which definitely helped. The views of the Stehekin River valley were great from here, and the breeze and altitude seemed to work together to open up views of some of the nearby mountaintops. We approached the area where the bear was spotted, but he was long gone – I generally look to avoid seeing or dealing with bears, while Jason, having seen several bears while living in Vermont, is a bit more comfortable with them and was slightly disappointed not to have seen one on the hike. His disappointment faded quickly as views of Sahale Mountain and Doubtful Lake below opened up – we were both surprised and happy that we could clearly see the mountain, Sahale Glacier and what we thought was the camp from here. We still had quite a ways to go though, so after a brief pause we continued on.

This section of the trail was my favorite section – we were still gaining altitude, but gradually and the views were mindblowing. I was really enjoying this section of nice, comfortable trail through high meadows with the camp getting closer with each step. While we were still too far away to see the actual camp we speculated how high up the mountain it would be. We did see a long, steep talus field below the glacier and from trip reports we knew we’d be going up at least part of it – we later found out we’d be going all the way up it! It wasn’t bad, we just had to take it slow – there are sections of “trail”, but there was also sections where you had to follow cairns, and there were even some sections where you had to “choose your own adventure”. We met a couple who were ahead of us, who went up, and were on their way back down, saying it was too windy up there and they just weren’t into it. At this point we definitely felt a strong breeze as we went up the arm, but knowing that the camp sites were protected by rock walls, we felt that we’d be fine with our small, one person tents. We thanked them for the report, but continued on up.

We finally reached the camp at about 7pm – our hiking time was about 5 hours, with nearly 2 hours of total rest time on the way up. If it wasn’t so smokey and warm we probably could have done with an hour of rest, but I was pretty happy with our pace overall. Just as the couple we talked to said, it was fairly windy – maybe about 15-25 mph, but it wasn’t really that bad and we started the process of setting up camp, careful not to let anything blow out of our hands and down the mountain. The air was quite a bit clearer, but it wasn’t any easier to breath as we were now at close to 8000 feet and the altitude definitely made it more difficult to breath. We just had to take it slow, and over time we adjusted to it.

We made a quick dinner, then enjoyed trail beer (or should I say, Trail Beer, as we were literally drinking 10 Barrel’s Trail Beer – Northwest Pale Ale) and a couple of nips of bourbon, then called it a night around 10:30 or so. I didn’t get much sleep, as the wind whipped at the sides of my tent continuously, but knowing that it would help blow the smoke away it was a small price to pay. Overall I probably got about 5 hours of sleep, which wasn’t too bad.

We woke up just before 7am and saw that while the smoke was still there, views of the surrounding mountain peaks had opened up considerably. We couldn’t stop taking photos – it was truly amazing up there. I walked over the mounds of rock to the composting toilet – I can guarantee you won’t find a toilet with a more breathtaking view than this one! We then had breakfast of oatmeal, Pop Tarts and coffee, then packed up and made the trip back down the mountain. We made much better time on the way down, as is usually the case, and made it back to the car with 3.5 hours of hiking and just 30 minutes of rest. Along the way we saw marmots and chipmunks, but no bears or goats. As we passed day hikers and overnighters, we gave reports of the trail and conditions/visibility up top.

Overall I can’t recommend this trip enough – it is definitely a challenge with it’s elevation gain of 4000+ feet, nearly a quarter of which is up a steep talus field towards the end. It would be pretty easy to slip and fall, gashing an arm or a leg or even twisting/breaking something. The key was to just take it slow, pick out a good route, and make sure each step was onto a secure rock. Permits to camp are pretty hard to get, but if you aren’t able to get one in advance, it seems like there are usually one or two permits available the day-of – you just want to be at the Marblemount Ranger Station before they open. It was great to finally do this hike, and while there are others that I’m anxious to check off my list, I have no doubt I’ll do this one again some day.

16 Miles On The Pacific NW Trail (PNT) – Training Hike For Chinook Trail Thru-Hike In October

In training for my Chinook Trail thru-hike this October, I’ve been going out on 15+ mile training hikes in the Bellingham area – mostly in the Chuckanut/Blanchard Mountain area. I’ve done short sections of the Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT), but in looking at the section between Chuckanut Drive (the Oyster Dome trailhead) and Alger, WA, it looked to be about 16 miles – absolutely perfect. It combines uphills, downhills, several lakes, a bit of road walking, and food and beer at the end. My actual miles on the Chinook Trail will average about 22-25 miles a day, but with a bit more rest, I definitely could have done 20+ miles with this hike.

The day started cool a misty, with occasional rain – to me absolutely perfect hiking conditions. Plus, after a few weeks of no rain at all, the forests here needed the moisture. There was a trail closure that didn’t affect the PNT, but it did require a detour for anyone hoping to reach Oyster Dome. As Oyster Dome isn’t part of the PNT, it wasn’t an issue for me. The weather seemed to keep people off the trails as well – through the entire hike I only saw three small groups of hikers, two trail runners and 1 bicyclist. The biggest uphill climb of the day was the section up to the Skagit Overlook – a good workout, but the legs were still fresh so it really wasn’t too difficult. The next section is a more gradual climb up to Lily and Lizard Lakes – I love this section of Blanchard and the mist and fog made this section quite beautiful, especially with all of the moss on the trees.

A few weeks ago I did the next section, the British Army Trail, going uphill and it was tough! It’s relatively steep, plus it came towards the end of my first thru-hike of the Chuckanuts, so it really wasn’t much fun. This time I was going downhill and had a much better experience. After this section it’s a bit of forest road walking, decent gravel roads that were more of a gradual downhill. The next section was mostly motorcycle trails and short sections of forest road – this is probably the least interesting section of the trail, and with rocks and deep ruts filling parts of this section it would be pretty easy to turn an ankle here, so watch your step!

Following that is close to 2 miles of road walking on Summerland/Nulle Road, which takes you under Interstate 5 over to Squires Lake Park. I’ve done the trails here on the way up to Alger Alp before, and it’s a nice trail with several cliff-side overlooks. It was more uphill though, which at mile 14 of the overall hike wasn’t super-welcome, but it’s fairly gradual so it wasn’t a big deal. The sun was starting to come out by then, so my clothes and pack had a good chance to dry. The trail turns onto forest roads as you continue south, ultimately spilling out onto Alger-Cain Lake Road, right near the town of Alger and the Alger Bar & Grill, which was where I ended the hike with a veggie burger and a beer. Conveniently there is a Park & Ride about 1/4 mile with buses to Burlington and Bellingham.

Overall this was a perfect hike to prepare for the Chinook Trail – I’ll probably do it again, but in the opposite direction for no other reason than to make it a different experience.

Welcome Pass – High Divide Trail Near Mt. Baker – Looking For A Good Workout?

Wow, if you are looking for a way to really test your body this trail is for you! According to Gaia, this was 2.88 miles from trailhead to top and the ascent was 3,136 feet. What that doesn’t tell you is about .88 of the trail is a gradual ascent, so you gain most of that in about 2 miles. Get ready to huff and puff on the way up, and possible blisters and jammed toes on the way down.

Having said that, this is really an amazing hike – the road to the trailhead is short, but there are a few really deep potholes to navigate past (a few are nearly 2 feet deep!). It’s sad that there isn’t funding to get these smoothed out, as it would likely only take 4-5 hours to fix them. Heck, I’m tempted to grab a shovel and do it myself!

The trail starts gradually over the first 2/3 of a mile or so and then the switchbacks start. There is a small stream before the switchbacks – if you are low on water fill up here, as there is little to no water the rest of the way. The switchbacks are steep and unrelenting – they will kick your butt! Pace yourself and take breaks – after a while the views start to open up, you’ll see the valley far below and the anticipation of getting to the top makes the last 1/2 mile go by quick.

Once you get above treeline it’s pretty mind-blowing – you can see everything all at once. Instead of taking the High Divide we took a right at the junction, heading up a steep knoll to the east, which opened up nearly 360 views – Mt Larrabee, Yellow Aster Butte, Goat Mountain, Shuksan and of course Mt Baker. You’d be hard pressed to find a better lunch spot – then again, any of the trails in that area are pretty amazing.

While the reward was worth the steep hike up, I may put off a return trip – you can get a similar view with the Yellow Aster Butte trail, and it’s definitely a more “pleasant” hike. Still, I’m glad to have finally done the Welcome Pass trail, and doing it with good friends and trail beers at the top, it made for quite a day!